Hodinkee Podcasts Summary (Part 4)

Episode 10 with Philippe Defour

Defour is a master watch-maker, who is a master in the industry. His ‘Simplicity’ is one of the most sought after 3 handers. He was on the jury of the GPHG. He is more familiar with only the high end segment.

We need to put the human back into watchmaking. The level of service has to step up, for instance, allow buyers to visit the watch factory and see the artisan making it. Brands try to drop the quality in order to cut costs etc, and that can be quite alarming. Young watchmakers are bored nowadays, and may not have the right mindset for the job. It is because the tasks given to them are too repetitive in nature. Hand-finishing is beautiful and is different from a CnC machine.

He still enjoys finishing a watch. Such a watch may give someone tremendous pleasure and that what keeps him going. Defour doesn’t see the industry shrinking although some brands have declined in their standards of watchmaking. Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable as well. Also, the modern generations are less likely to buy a Swiss watch because there are many other competitors.

Defour recommends a brand like Nomos, Lange and Sohne, Rolex etc. Rolex has a good quality for the price and are extremely reliable. Watches are not exactly affordable for the majority of people. Young people need to learn to wear better watches, as some are only keen on Smartwatches. The smartwatch provides a different experience to a mechanical watch.

Episode 11 with Tony Fadell

Tony is a tech guy who helped out in the creation of the iPhone, who is a die-hard watch collector. He used to wear a 5980 for an event. Throughout the years, he has collected 20 or 30 smartwatches and understand their differences and study the trends. He wants a stylish and functional watch instead of a computer. Most people don’t use the Apple watch as just for something that keeps time.

He also worked on the Ressence e-crown type 2 concept watch, which is a function to help tell the time better. The e-crown helps to set the time automatically. If you have a product where people both like and hate it, it’s fine, you can tweak the product accordingly. There is certainly a beauty of winding and setting the watch. The AP RD-2 was a hot release with awesome specs, and admired much by Tony. To me, he felt there was love and care in every aspect of the watch. Watch proportions are the key. You will need to embrace new technologies, in the past, people only carried pocket watches. He looks innovation at every level.

When smartwatches were first released, there were many executives who panicked as they saw it as a threat. Watches will have to evolve, embrace smartwatches or else you will die. JCB eventually created the best smartwatch with Tag Heuer. Tony got his first watch, a Tag, in the 90s. After that, his grandpa gave him his watch. Later, he went to buy a Panerai in Italy. After that, he was hooked on watches. There was a little community in Apple who were into mechanical watches as well. The Apple watch uses a strap-changing technology and allows people to swap straps easily. Since the talking watches, his watch collection has improved further.

He has collected some of the first Pateks in the market. One of his best watches is the Patek 2526. Is society ready to adopt new products? If no, sometimes it could be too early. Technology released to the market too soon, may not work, right thing but wrong time. The watch industry needs to get better in the watch design and production cycle.

Episode 12 with Spike Feresten

Spike is a legend in the comedy world, and is a comedy writer. Ted Gushue helped to connect Spike and Ben together. Spike loved the writing and photography from Hodinkee. He has also been on talking watches previously. Spike contacts Ben and Spike updates Ben when he needs advise on Porsches. His first watch was a Tag 2000 chronograph, which he had bought in a store. This was his first and only watch for a long time. Swatches were popular in the past, and they would climb in value, but eventually there would be a bubble. Later on, Spike used to get Heuers. He bought a 1960s Tonneau Heuer, and he simply loved it. His career involved getting some luck and breaks. Spike is wearing a 6263 PN Rolex Daytona for the show.

He managed to land some internships in the comedy space, including at Letterman. Most people don’t think that comedy writers can make a living. If you have things you are angry about, talk about that for stand-up comedy. Now, he hosts Car Matchmaker programme. Ben thinks about watches that could match the cars he drives. Ben is wearing a yellow gold 6263 PN Daytona. Spike also has a podcast with Ben, on cars and entertainment.

Spike believes in watches that are affordable, like Autodromo. For instance, another brand is Unimatic. James would like an early Explorer 2 as his grail.

Hodinkee Podcasts Summary (Part 3)

Episode 7 with Scott Dadich

Scott works in the media industry. He was firstly the creative director at Texas Monthly and contributed to the Hodinkee magazine previously. He used to work for Wired magazine and is now with Godfrey Dadich Partners, a creative agency in California. During the show, he is wearing an Apple Watch. Vintage Rolexes are his soft spot. He is really in the deep end, and notices the intricacies of vintage Rolex. His first watch was the 1969, 1675 GMT. It can be really fun going to hike with a vintage Rolex Explorer. His gold Sub was one of his memorable purchases. A gold sports watch belies its original intention, but it doesn’t lose its appeal.

There is really something appealing about an Apple Watch, and it is largely because of its design, which has an interesting industrial design. Sneaker collecting can be really addictive and expensive. Scott does collect a few design books and art pieces as well. His top career moments include working with President Obama.

Episode 8 with Adam Scott

He is a professional golfer who has won the Masters previously. He finished 3^rd in the 2018 PGA championship. Wingfoot is a historic golf club, with a rich history. Adam can’t afford to play badly even if it’s social golf. A pro who plays badly is very happy, no matter what occasion. Adam has much admiration for Tiger Woods and his massive achievements, although they are fierce competitors. It was an awesome experience winning the Masters. The Masters has one of the most appeal in terms of a golf tournament.

He is wearing a Rolex 2018 GMT Master II in two-tone Rolesor with a Root Beer bezel. Since 2001, Adam has been a Rolex ambassador and has been into vintage watches in recent years only. Rolex is definitely his kind of thing at the moment. He eventually managed to tour the Rolex factory and that completed changed his perception of the brand. Rolex usually only picks the winners from sports, so that they can wear the watch while they hold the trophy.

His favorite models are Subs and Sea-dwellers as they can be banged around. He has a Comex 16800 and the right provenance and history. Adam has a 6241 Paul Newman Daytona in his collection, and is planning his next Daytona purchase. Other things that he is interested in are furniture and chairs, surfboards etc. His wife wears some of his watches also, and is fine with his hobby. His family is golf crazy as well and introduced him to golf when he was young. The reception at home when he won the Masters was crazy.

When you’re playing good, you think you’ll never play bad. But when you’re playing bad, you don’t know when you will play good again. – Adam Scott

Episode 9 with Keegan Allen

He is an actor/photographer. There is a talking watches episode with him previously. He is wearing a 1675 Blueberry dial Rolex GMT Master II. Avoid using the watch in a pool etc. James is wearing the Tudor Black Bay GMT.

To Keegan, how the way a watch ages matters a lot. It’s hefty, but it wears extremely well on the wrist. An interesting thing about Keegan is that he wears a watch when he sleeps. He loves the ticking of the watch in his ear, like the tonal ping. He has written numerous photography books that reflects his history etc. The Hodinkee Talking watches episode has led to some strangers coming up to him and say hi.

Keegan uses his Leica M6 most of the time. His focus is definitely on street photography and stories. Using images to tell stories are simply awesome. You don’t know what you want until you touch and feel it. It was such an honour for Keegan to be on talking watches.

Watches isn’t an elitist hobby, but it’s a passion. One of his most important watches are the Patek 5164A Travel Time. Watches are one of the only main accessories that you can get as a man. If the watch hobby is not fun, don’t continue and do it. When you wear your favorite watch piece, it simply feels good. It used to be seen as tools in the past. Although Keegan has his grail, he still feels passionate about watches.

Watches can definitely outlive you, and take on a life of its own. A travel watch (GMT) suggests freedom, adventure etc. It is extremely hard to get a steel Rolex at the AD nowadays. Who you know at the AD matters. It is extremely hard to get a steel sports Rolex at the airports at the current moment. It can be scary to scratch up your gold Rolex, and one needs to be careful with it.

Hodinkee Podcasts Summary (Part 2)

Episode 4 with Om Malik

He is a partner at True Ventures, a Venture Cap firm. He is wearing a beautiful Grand Seiko SBGR301. He and Ben went shopping in Paris and Wempe. True Ventures is one of Hodinkee’s biggest investors. Om does not appreciate people talking down on others’ collections. To him, to his each own, and is it important to respect someone’s collection.

Affordable watch coverage is important. Om has watches like Grand Seiko and Nomos (Nomos Zurich etc). Grand Seiko is really under-rated in the industry but it is gaining prominence. Even the Seiko Presage range is outstanding. Watches are an emotional product and means more to you rather than anyone else. His preference is for smaller brands, likes Ochs Und Junior, which are incredibly innovative. People who know watches will recognize Grand Seikos and realize that their finishing is outstanding. Some Swiss executives see the Grand Seiko as a threat.

Swatch did not see the Apple watch coming and should have innovated more. For the Apple watch, it’s more about its functionality and not so much about the time. The Apple watch has potentially health features. There are some who do not like quartz watches.

Quartz watches don’t have the same feel, charm, fun factor as a mechanical watch. The outstanding GS 9F Quartz, Longines VHP watch is something to aim for. Dismissing quartz watches is what some watch guys do. There is a certain pseudo-intellectualism in the watch community, which is to show off something that you know, even though you don’t know much. The pursuit of watches can be incredibly rewarding.

Om bought a Moser. It can be fun to save a bit every day before buying a watch. Do your watches bring joy to you? If no, please stop. The line between collecting and hoarding is very thin.

Om is working on a book of photos actually. He aims to slow down time by going on long photography trips. Hodinkee provides the platform for people to engage in their watch fanaticism. It gives people networking opportunities etc. Many of the employees working in Hodinkee really loves it. The Hodinkee meetups are heavily oversubscribed and provide so much joy to people who attend. Om loves PSM (Speake Marin) watches. Ben places a lot of emphasis on the dial, more than the case, like his Patek 2526, his Eberhard chronograph.

When you buy watches, you need to wear them, and not simply keep them in a safe. Watches need air. If you wear it often, price-per-wear definitely reduces a lot. Most people end up acquiring things for no reason. For everything that you buy, think about its happiness quotient? What is the happiness that the object can bring? Never live your life based on what others think. Remember that happiness definitely comes first.

 

Episode 5 with Eric Ku

Eric is well respected watch dealer/collector in the industry. He is the guy to go to for vintage watches. He is wearing a Patek 3939, which is an enamel dial, minute repeater tourbillion. Since young, he had a fascination with mechanical watches.

In the 1990s, the Daytonas and Explorers grew in popularity. In the past, arbitrage for Rolex Explorers could be done. His first vintage was a Red Sub, in 1998. In his early days, he made some mistakes, but gradually he started learning from his mistakes. Watch knowledge and nomenclature was not documented on the Internet yet. Dealers will try to push the prices on something if they find something rare, but it is the market that dictates the pricing. Five digits Rolex prices are shooting up, even though they are not rare. As time passes, there are more vintage watches that are coming up, due to them ageing. This is also known as the ‘New Vintage’. People appreciate the smaller sizes of the older Rolexes.

Many retailers are not getting good allocation of steel sport Rolexes. Prices are shooting through the roof, but will they collapse one day? Pre-own watches are getting more common nowadays. Things are cyclical and prices will drop someday. What comes up, must come down, but there might be a slight upward trend. The pool of vintage keeps shrinking, as watches get lost/damaged etc. Auction records is like navel gazing and you can compare with previous auction prices. In a way, auction prices help to reflect the enthusiasm of the product. The truth is that there are so few that can afford 7 figure watches, so the auction records don’t mean much. Prices crashed in 2007/2008. In every business, there are good and bad times. The ultra-rich class has grown a lot more.

It’s very difficult for a newbie to get into vintage watches, 1675 and 5513 as they are more than $10,000 or more. Someone like that could consider other brands, like Cartier, Universe Geneve. Nomos makes a good watch for the price. The modern Rolex is now out of reach to most people. His first watch that cost over $10,000 was a Vianney Halter Antiqua. Eric really supports independent watch-makers. He appreciates brands like Gronefield and Cartier. Cartier produces timeless designs, like the Cartier Tank Cintree. Early Cartiers are really rare and desirable. Bubblebacks were popular, but fell out of favour recently. Large watches are over-rated. There is a trend nowadays, where brands are making smaller watches.

Rolex 36mm are the best fit. Good design is always timeless. Eric recommends 34mm Rolexes from the past, for about 2 to 3k. The good thing about Rolex is that they can retain their value well. Vintage gold Rolex watches are undervalued at the moment. Two important lessons are (i) condition of the watch (buy the best version based on your budget); (ii) buy what you like. Spend time to research about what you like.

Eric is really into food and trying our excellent restaurants as well.

 

Episode 6 with Todd Snyder

He is the founder of Todd Snyder brand of clothing. Cara has worked with Todd and has provided vintage watches for them to sell. Todd’s store is to be the one stop shop for a guy. Everything in the store is really edited and curated well. You can get everything in Todd’s. There are over 2,000 books for sale in the store.

Todd got inspired and worked for Ralph Lauren eventually. He brought a few Timex, Tudor Black Bay Chrono, Tudor Ranger and a Rolex as well. Since young, he has always worked in clothing stores and with tailors. He has always been interested in how garments were made etc. If you want to be the best, work for the best. Knowing the basics of clothing is the key. Working for Ralph was a dream come true for Todd. Todd even offered to work for free just to get to work for Ralph, and it worked. His advice for kids are to ‘work hard, innovate and be nice’. If you have poor attitude, you won’t go far in life. Todd has also worked in GAP and JCrew, key American brands. Ralph always reinvents iconic fashion and created their own styling to it. Todd tries to reinvent the basics and improves on them, making them very desirable.

He is also rather big on collaborations, like with RedWing etc. Todd would love to collaborate with an interior designer/architectural firm. The Timex Marlin collaboration was a huge success. Timex is one of his favorite brands, as his Dad owned one previously. He is definitely planning some more collaborations in future.

Tudor is definitely the value for money brand, as compared to Rolex. For clothes, it is really important to start off with great basics which fit well.

Hodinkee Podcasts Summary (Part 1)

Episode 1 with Ben Clymer

He was not interested in finance/consulting career and realized that after his role in banking. Started writing about grandfather’s watch on Tumblr and then Squarespace. It started off as a hobby. Back then, finance was the place where everyone wanted to be.

The first Hodinkee post was about the Eric Clapton’s Paul Newman Daytona. Gandhi’s watch, Einstein’s watch started coming up for sale at that time. He definitely has a flair for writing/photography and wanted to marry the two things together. The whole journey has been fun, especially meeting the press, going on press trips etc. Not many believe that one can start a career in the watch industry. The press trip by AP in 2009 was exceptional and really eye-opening, and it was really surreal. The hyper-lux world isn’t something that many are familiar with and can relate to.

Meeting Jay Z and writing for him, as well as meeting John Mayer were moments he knew that times changed and that Hodinkee was for real. Hodinkee started selling straps with vintage feel at the start. John Mayer also started writing for Hodinkee in 2012. He was also the first to be filmed for the Talking Watches series. The moment Stephen and Will joined were also massive highlights.

Hodinkee has a staff strength of 28 now, including full-time designers and engineers. In 2014, a large company offered to purchase the brand. In 2015, Watchville was launched. Other editors that were hired included Jack, Cara, John, James etc. Hodinkee’s audience is really educated and sophisticated.

Most of the time, it isn’t the best idea to get a cheap version of a certain watch model and it’s better to get the best version of a particular watch. Some of the common questions that people ask are what are the good investment pieces? Can you get me a discount on a watch? How does the name Hodinkee come about? Hodinkee means wristwatch in Czech.

Hodinkee is good at being the bridge between the hyper-lux world and reality. There could certainly be room for improvement in the watch boutique experience. As people decided to buy watches because of Hodinkee’s articles, this showed other watch brands the power of marketing. This proves that Hodinkee has plenty of might in terms of marketing and their e-commerce site. Almost all their limited editions have been sold out. Hodinkee propagated the love for vintage watch and new watches that had a vintage vibe. The ideas behind the limited editions are truly an organic process and fun. Almost all the limited editions have been great successes.

Ben’s grandfather gave him a Mark 40 Omega chronograph when he was 16, and that started Ben’s love for watches. Cars and cameras are a big thing for Ben as well. He plans to stick around to grow Hodinkee further. Success is not guaranteed even if you were successful before with a previous venture. Success is never easy.

Episode 2 with Gary Shteyngart

He wrote an article on watches for the New Yorker in 2017. His upcoming book is ‘Lake Success’. Gary is an author and watch collector and a strap tanner. His watch collection started in 2016 and he was originally from Russia. One of his first few watches is the Junghans Maxbill (Bauhaus design), Nomos. Mid 20^th century was an awesome period. He grew up with an electronic Casio musical watch. His taste isn’t gaudy, but is anti-ostentatious and doesn’t want people to notice them. In the past, watches for most appeared to be too large.

The signaling of watches is very important, especially in rich cities like Singapore. It is a natural breeding ground for luxury watches. The watch community is so small, but meeting someone who is into watches is incredibly inspiring. Watches are certainly a very pricey hobby, especially if you are vintage Rolex. If you are bad at driving, a Rolex Daytona just doesn’t fit your image. Gary loves GMTs and divers. Desk divers are great as well and it helps to aspire to things. The Omega Speedmaster has a rich heritage as it has been to the Moon and is commonly known as the Moonwatch. William Gibson is one of Gary’s inspirational writers.

Gary bought a Rolex Explorer 1016, which is simply a lovely watch. He owns a 1675 GMT-Master II, and a Patek 3445. The vintage market is kind of heated, unfortunately. To him, movements are important but they are more difficult to understand, unlike dials. Seamasters with the 321 movements are super rare and desirable. The one watch man is simply a dream to many, like an aspirational goal, like a unicorn. As a matter of fact, faux-patina is not something that he fancies.

Nostalgia is a big thing in the watch industry nowadays. With a trend of nostalgia, how will brands create anything new and appealing to the market?  Oak and Oscar borrows vintage cues, but makes it modern as well.

When you own a mechanical watch, you believe in the traditional craft and the beauty of time. However, when you check the time on a phone, you are constantly distracted. It’s like physical books, there will still be a market for it. The apple watch does different things as compared to mechanical watches, and is unlikely to displace them. It probably isn’t a good idea to treat watches as investments. There are plenty of good vintage watch finds in El Paso.

Episode 3 with Rian Johnson

He directed the latest Star Wars film. Twitter is like a war. Rian is wearing a beautiful Rolex Explorer 1016 (1965) with a tropical dial (caramel colour). There is an element of engineering to screenplay. He doesn’t like writing, but he is a producer and director at times. Rian obviously prefers being the director. He bought a Speedmaster (pre-moon, 1969) when he was picked for Star Wars. Each of his watches has a story, and says a bit about particular moments of his life. Sometimes, you even know the history of the watch that you own if it’s pre-owned. Now, he has appreciated vintage watches. He wore his dad’s watch during film shooting, in order to re-connect with him as he passed away. Patek’s 3417 Amagnetic is one of his grail pieces.

A Man and His Watch (Iconic Watches & Stories From the Men Who Wore Them) by Matt Hranek (Part 3)

From the Hermes Archives. The archives are in Paris. They manufacture straps for others too. They look at watches through a celebration of leathercraft, style, fashion etc. Some of their ostrich straps are really lovely. There were even belt watches in the 1930s.

Bradley Price. He is the founder and product designer at Autodromo. His watch is the Autodromo Monoposto. I was a product designer. I was obsessed with vintage cars since young. A watch could then be inspired by gauges in a car. I started off with the Ronda quartz movements in my watches as they were cheaper. Just like the old cars, my watches had a red line painted on the glass. It was truly inspiring. Eventually, I ventured into automatic movements. The brand has a cult following, with I am very proud of. When you are a small company, it is possible to relate to your customers better. I want to create something that’s interesting and exciting. As a small outfit, we can always try new things.

I think Autodromo resonates with people because we’re still a tiny company; basically, one guy designing stuff. – Bradley Price

I don’t care about trying to create something that lasts for the ages; I’m trying to create something that excites people now, something that they want to buy and own. – Bradley Price

Adam Craniotes. He is the writer and cofounder of Redbar Group. His watch is the 1980 Casio F-7 and the 2012 IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ref 5029. My grandpa supported my passion for watches. He bought the Casio F-7 when I was young. I was the moderator for the IWC form on Timezone. I wanted a pilot’s watch all along. The one which I bought was made completely of black ceramic. However, the price was prohibitive. I sold a few watches and my mum chipped in as well. My mum recognized my passions and supported me.

Both of these watches always put a smile on my face when I wear them. And as with any hobby, if you can’t have that moment, you need to pick another hobby. – Adam Craniotes

Grahame Fowler. He is the founder of Grahame Fowler original. His watch is the Rolex Submariner 5513, Rolex Mil Sub 5517, Omega Seamaster 300. Watches just came naturally to me when I was young. My 5513 was found on a beach in Dorset between 1972 and 1978.

A lot of people say my Rolex is wrecked. Actually, it’s destroyed, but for me it’s a work of art. It’s like a piece of sculpture. The dial’s been corroded and faded from years of being washed about and water getting in and degrading it. – Grahame Fowler

I became interested in military watches as a child. My dad was in the English Royal Corps of Signals, and all the men had military watches and guns. – Grahame Fowler

Henry Leutwyler. He is a photographer. His watch is the Rolex Cosmograph Ref 6241 and the Rolex Oyster Bubbleback. After my dad passed away, mum and I moved to another place for superstitious reasons. I bought a Rolex Cosmograph secondhand to commemorate the time when I was a kid. It wasn’t because of monetary value, it was because I loved it. I inherited a Rolex bubble-back when my uncle died. Don’t get attached to money.

Even if I were to lose all my money again, I would never sell these watches, whether they’re worth a dollar or a million dollars. I will eat less, get thin, work hard and start over. – Henry Leutwyler

Sylvester Stallone. He is an actor, director and screenwriter. His watch is the Tiffany & Co. Gold Rolex Submariner Reference 1680/8. This is the watch I was most connected to. I first saw it on Gregg Allman, lead singer of the Allman Brothers band. I love the strength and simplicity of the watch.

From the Zenith Archives. Mechanical movements weren’t sexy or modern in the 1970s. Quartz movement hasn’t killed the fascination with craftsmanship and mechanical things. Zenith was able to return to produce mechanical movements due to Charly Vermot. This resurrected the brand. The El Primero was a high-beat chrono movement that was really outstanding and even found its way into early Rolex daytonas.

Ralph Lauren. He is the Chairman and CCO of Ralph Lauren Corporation. His watch is the Cartier Tank Cintree. It has a unique combination. Watches were an important part of a man’s look. To me, watches have emotional value. Creating a watch collection is about building something emotional. I like things built with a purpose. Watches are like moving art.

I think a man and his watch have a special bond. It’s probably his most signature personal piece – something he puts on every day. It’s functional jewelry. – Ralph Lauren

I believe in wearing different watches to match the mood of what you’re wearing, where you’re going. I see watches as I see clothes: part of a world we live in that changes from day to day. – – Ralph Lauren

I’ve always thought of my cars as moving art. I feel the same way about watches. It’s moving art, worn on your wrist. I don’t think there is anything like it in the world. – Ralph Lauren

John Criscitiello. He is a watch dealer. His favorite watch is the Breitling Chronomat. I have been trading watches since 1983. I saw the Breitling in the late 30s and 40s. The case is very rare. It was left behind by a GI in June 1941. I was happy to be a care-taker of it. I have been keeping this watch for nearly 20 years already.

Nate Berkus. He is an interior designer and author. His favorite watch is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 3800/A. I liked things of quality since young. My parents wore good watches too. My mum bought a steel Air King when I was 12. My dad used to own the PP, but he lost it before passing away. I knew after he passed on, I wanted to buy it again and eventually did. My partner didn’t make it in the tsunami in Cambodia in 2004. That day, I lost my PP. I knew after that, I wanted to get it back.

Review of the Seiko Turtle SRP777K1

I purchased this watch in Feb 2017 from a seller on Carousell after the purchase of my Seiko Sarb033 dress watch. Although I now own the Seiko Padi SRPA21K1, I feel that this all-black Turtle is unique enough to hold a place in my collection.

The Seiko Turtle SRP777K1 which I purchased was a non-Japanese model and is part of the Seiko Prospex line of divers and has the ‘X’ on the dial. I was always looking forward to purchase a cheap Seiko which was reliable. The black bezel really makes the watch look muted, just like the Rolex Submariners and gives it a tool-like feel. The SRP777K1 (44.3mm case and is 14mm thick) uses the upgraded Seiko 4R36 movement, unlike some of the other lower-end Seiko 5s. It has the iconic cushion-style case which is reminiscent of the Seiko 6309s in the past. The watch is a simple time only watch with a second hand and a rotating bezel. Seiko is a renowned brand which needs no introduction whatsoever. There are other models of this modern Turtle re-make. These include the SRP773, SRP775, SRP779 and also the Seiko Padi Turtles, Green Turtles, Zimbe Turtles, Blue Lagoon Turtles etc. Seiko has also released a Seiko Samurai Turtle in early 2017. The K series of the same watches are slightly cheaper but the one I own is of great quality, similar to the J models.

Seiko movements are reliable and are made in-house. The Seiko 4R36 mechanical movements (42 hour power reserve) has been around for ages and keep good time and chronometry. In addition, because they are Japanese movements, they are a lot more affordable. In fact, the 4R36s, 6R15s are comparable to Miyota movements or even Swiss ETAs. There is extensive lume on the SRP777K1, comparable to some of Seiko’s other divers. The watch simply glows like a torch at night! This watch is certainly an upgrade from the SKX range, which uses the 7s movement. Seiko watches are good value-for-money and aesthetically pleasing and for good reason.

The main reason why I found it so attractive was the tool-like nature of the watch. My reasons are listed below:

The SRP777K1 comes in a stainless steel case in a cushion style shape. (about 48mm lug-to-lug) and a silicon Z-22 rubber strap (22mm). The rubber strap is extremely durable and supple and is extremely comfortable to wear. The metal keepers on the strap are also brushed and polished, creating a splendid visual effect. I prefer wearing the watch on the rubber strap as compared to the standard Seiko metal bracelet. The cushion shaped case sits nicely on the wrist and is well-built. I have worn the Turtle for extended periods of time and have not felt any wrist fatigue.

The Seiko Turtle re-issue has been a great success as it closely inspired by the original Seiko 6309s. It is simply a tool watch which can be abused without the user worrying about it. The dial is largely symmetrical, other than the day-date indication at 3 o’clock. The hour markers and minute markers are shaped like broad arrows. The dial is pure black, with white fonts and markers. The all0black bezel is fully marked from 0 to 60. The black bezel is certainly popularized by the vintage Rolex dive watches.

The SRP777K1 is a dive watch with 200 meters water resistance and is secured by the screw-down crown. This watch can certainly be used for sports and for daily use. It will pair well with formal attire, like a suit/blazer or even t-shirts and jeans. I have worn this piece numerous times to work and I have had no trouble with it. Being 14mm tall, it might not slide under most shirt-cuffs. I would say that the watch is quite stealthy in nature due to the dull black colour on the dial and strap. The watch does not get as much wrist time as my Ball or Tudor watches as it also costs much less. The uni-directional bezel is easy to turn and there is little play in it. The bezel also aligns perfectly to the 12 o’clock mark. However, I have read reviews that some bezels might be stiff to turn and might not align perfectly too.

The watch uses the Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which is hand winding and has hacking capabilities. This a certainly a workhorse movement that is widely used in other Seikos like the famous Prospex range. The movement comes with a 42 hour power reserve when fully wound. However, I am not used to watches which can’t wind and have to be powered via wrist movements. Hence, this watch suits me more than the SKX range. The automatic movement cannot be seen as there is a closed caseback. The rotor is also very quiet and barely audible. The watch seems to be fairly accurate based on the brief period which I had it with me. Before this piece, I purchased the Seiko Turtle PADI, which is a special edition.

SRP777K1 has Seiko’s renowned proprietary Hardlex crystal. It gives the watch greater presence and texture, evoking a vintage feel while claiming to be harder than hesalite crystal. Although not as superior to sapphire crystal in terms of scratch resistance properties, it is durable and decent enough. The stainless steel caseback is engraved with the Air Diver logo and has a brushed finish.

Overall, I am impressed by how the watch looks. I have no issues with the weight of the watch. The Seiko SRP777K1 is a unique entry level dive watch which is durable and can last for ages. It is something that is highly recommended and is much more affordable than Swiss watches. The watch is available in Singapore and retails for SGD 550. You may consider purchasing it online via eBay or Amazon. If you are considering an entry level dive watch, this watch might just be the one for you.

 

Review of the Seiko SNZH57K1 (Fifty Fathoms)

I purchased this watch in May 2016 after the purchase of my Tudor Pelagos 25600TB.

I was always looking forward to purchase a cheap Seiko which looked like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms at a fraction of the cost. To me, the gold and black colour scheme was appealing. To be honest, this was a fairly impulsive buy as it was just a month after my Tudor purchase. The SNZH57K1 (45mm case and is 14mm thick) uses the Seiko 7S36 movement. Many of my friends have praised the watch for its resemblance with the Blancpain FF. It can also be highly modded by shops like Yobokies and strapcode. The watch is a simple time only watch with a second hand. I purchased this from a seller on Carousell. The watch is part of the cheaper Seiko 5 range, as compared to the Presage, Prospex line etc. Seiko is a renowned brand which needs no introduction whatsoever.

Seiko movements are reliable and are made in-house. The Seiko 7S36 mechanical movements has been around for ages and keep good time and chronometry. In addition, because they are Japanese movements, they are a lot more affordable. In fact, the 4R36s, 6R15s are comparable to Miyota movements or even Swiss ETAs. There is minimal lume on the SNZH57K1. Seiko watches are good value-for-money and aesthetically pleasing and for good reason. In terms of price point, Seiko 5’s are very affordable and presents excellent value for those who are new to mechanical watches.

The main reason why I found it so attractive was the colour scheme and hardlex crystal. My reasons are listed below:

The SNZH57K1 comes in a stainless steel case (about 49mm lug-to-lug) and a generic Seiko dive bracelet. The watch is quite substantial on the wrist. The bracelet is of standard fair and is common across many of Seiko’s other watches, like the Seiko Sumo. However, it is sturdy and durable. I have also paired it with an olive green nato, giving it a sporty feel.

The watch, has great reviews online. This is due to the overall appearance of the watch. Many are attracted to the vintage inspired look of the dial, reminiscent of the Blancpain FF which retails for more than $10,000. The dial is largely symmetrical, other than the day-date indication at 3 o’clock. The hour markers and minute markers are shaped like broad arrows. The dial is black, with gold fonts and markers. One thing I love is that the background of the date window matches the dial colour. Way to go, Seiko!

The SNZH57K1 is a dive watch with 100 meters water resistance. This watch can certainly be used for sports and for daily use. It will pair well with formal attire, like a suit/blazer or even t-shirts and jeans. I have worn this piece numerous times to work and I have had no trouble with it. Being 14mm tall, it might not slide under most shirt-cuffs. I would say that the watch is not very stealthy in nature due to the unique colour on the dial. The watch does not get as much wrist time as my Ball or Tudor watches as it also costs much less. The uni-directional bezel is also coated with the Hardlex crystal and is easy to turn.

The watch uses the Seiko 7S36 automatic movement, which is non-hand winding and non-hacking. This a certainly a workhorse movement that is widely used in other Seikos like the famous SKX range. The movement comes with a 42 hour power reserve when fully charged. However, I am not used to watches which can’t wind and have to be powered via wrist movements. I guess at this price point, I have no right to complain. The movement is also sparsely decorated as can be seen from the display caseback. The rotor is also very quiet and barely audible. The watch seems to be fairly accurate based on the brief period which I had it with me.

SNZH57K1 has Seiko’s renowned proprietary Hardlex crystal. It gives the watch greater presence and texture, evoking a vintage feel while claiming to be harder than hesalite crystal. Although not as superior to sapphire crystal in terms of scratch resistance properties, it is durable and decent enough.

Overall, after owning it for only 3 months (I sold it to a friend subsequently), I am still impressed by how the watch looks and might consider buying it back in future. My main gripe was not that it could not hand-wind unlike my other watches and hence, I could not accurately judge its power reserve.  The Seiko SNZH57K1 is a fun entry level dive watch which has vintage aesthetics. It is something that is highly recommended. The watch retails for SGD 250+ and is readily available. I sold it only because I wanted to upgrade to Swiss timepieces. If you are considering an entry level dive watch, this watch might just be the one for you.

The Ultimate Guide to Buying and Selling Rolexes Online by Time4Luxury

Rolex Buyer’s Guide

Why Should I Buy a Rolex? A watch takes about a year to be manufactured. They are one of the most high quality timepieces in the market. It was founded in 1915. Many famous people had worn them. Rolex are now known as a symbol of success, class and tradition. They are also a work of art. Many people buy it to commemorate a special moment in their lives. Everyone deserves to own a Rolex at some point in their lives.

When to Buy a Rolex? When is the best time to own one? Here are the top 5 reasons to own one: Invest in yourself and buy 1 to commemorate a milestone. Get one to communicate success in life. You may also see it as an investment. You can also give to your loved ones. Time4Luxury will be able to offer you the best price available.

New vs Used Timepieces. If you buy new, you will learn to appreciate it more and it will definitely be authentic and in perfect condition. However, buying new costs more and re-sale value may fall in the past. However, it is difficult to predict which Rolex model will be celebrate in the future. Buying used is good as it is cheaper and you can enter the market of vintage Rolex. The cons is that you might buy a fake or replica.

Choosing a Rolex Model. Oyster Perpetual is a very functional and formal model. You could consider the Lady-Datejust. The Datejust is one of the most iconic models around. The Day-Date is the ‘President’s Rolex’. The Sky-Dweller has 2 time zones and an annual calendar. The Milgauss was designed for scientists and is anti-magnetic. The Explorers are for the courageous, those who like to conquer new frontiers. The GMT Masters were meant for pilot and travellers. The Submariner is one of the most iconic, elegant dive watches in the market. The Sea-Dweller is one of the most heavy duty timepieces. The Yacht-Masters are for people into boat racing. The Daytona represents speed and racing and is reminiscent of the legend Paul Newman. The Cellini line is elegant and Renaissance inspired.

Where to Buy a Rolex. You can get them from many places. However, getting online can prove to be cheaper. If you pay by wire transfer, it is also possible to get a discount.

How to Sell Your Rolex

Ensure that you sell to a reputable person/ company. The online retailer is becoming increasingly popular. Re-commerce means selling used goods back to the retailer.

Where to Sell your Rolex. Auction houses take 15% off the selling price. This will reduce your profit substantially. If you use online auctions, the auction house will take sellers and buyer’s commission and the process is quite cumbersome. Jewelry stores are tough too. Online retailers are your best bet.

How to Sell Your Rolex. Ensure there is a model and serial number. With the box and papers, your value goes up. Get quotes so that you know how much your watch is worth. Next, request quotes from distributers.

Things to Know when Selling Your Rolex. Do note that authenticity is very important. Your watch features are valuable. In addition, learn to sell your watch as it is. Do know that when you sell, you might only get back 70% to 80% of retail price. Online retailers have higher volumes of traffic and might prove to be more profitable.

Selling a vintage Rolex watch. Functionality and authenticity are the key. You can also pay in order to ensure authenticity.

How to Profit Collecting Vintage Watches by E.J. Kelly

This book will help you to make good decisions. This guide is portable and concise. It will be useful for new collectors out there. It is easier to profit from mechanical watches than other types of watches. They are inventive and are alive. These watches also have a high value and are scarce in production.

There are roughly five types of mechanical watches: hand-wound, automatic, chronographs, alarm watches and chronometers. The mainspring was invented in 1511. By 1571, the wristwatch was invented. Blaise Pascal wore his wristwatch in 1623. By 1770, the automatic watch was underway. Breguet was one of the first brands to use the mechanical watch. Women treated watches as a form of jewellery. Men’s watches were typically made for military personnel. In 1909, the first chronograph was made. The first waterproof case and screw-down crown was invented by Rolex in 1926. In 1948, Eterna produced an automatic watch with a ball-bearing rotor. In 1969, the first Omega moon watch went into space. By 1970, quartz watches hit the market. Mechanical watch production was hit but some of these watches continued to fetch astronomical prices at auctions.

There are examples of Americans making quality timepieces. One of them was Daniel Burnap. He helped to design brass clocks. Pre-1850, there were more clocks than wrist-watches. These clocks can be considered as collectibles now. Aaron Denilson and his partner, Edward Howard founded Waltham Watch Company. They had a monopoly for nearly 20 years. The American Railroad Pocket Watch was invented due to the poor timekeeping on trains. Some brands like Hamilton, Elgin, Hampden began to become more popular. After WWII, many watch makers were badly hit and some had to close. The watches manufactured before this time can be considered really collectible. Some US brands managed to emerge again, but they bought Swiss components. Nowadays, more US brands do not produce their watches in-house anymore.

The Mechanics of a Good Watch. It depends on the materials used and process/production. The overall styling is important. A watch should be judged based on its performance and quality. Some can be made from expensive material. Gold filled watches are usually of better quality. Stainless steel was more popular over recent years as it was an anti-magnetic material. Engraving, etching makes the watch more valuable. The finishing and polishing on the bezel matters. The dial can be made of enamel or other materials. Markers can be carved, plated, applied, hand painted etc. Dials can be sunken or not. Quality movements are durable and reliable. Jewel bearings increases serviceability. Quality can be judged based on the number of jewels, its setting and the number of screws to hold them down. Some screws can be highly polished and bevelled to become smooth. Brass or nickel plating for movements are common. The co-axial escapement for Omega watches helps to avoid the need for lubrication. Quartz watches are accurate as they do not require lubricants. Always buy within your means.

Understand terms like repeater watch, tourbillion etc. The heart of the watch is the ‘balance spring’. The escapement is a device in the watch that checks the motion of the train and the amount of energy sent to the balance. Mainspring is a coiled spring that supplies power to the watch.

Learn to Identify, Inspect and Grade a Watch. Start with vintage hand-wound mechanicals. Some of their price points are okay, but always start small. Self-winding mechanicals fetch good prices too. Be wary that some watches are simply frauds and should be avoided. Please do your due diligence before buying. Be wary when a vintage watch is re-cased. Sometimes, the original movement number can be replaced. Please look out for discolouration on the dial. Make mental models in your mind when you inspect a watch. Pull out the crown and set the watch. Listen to the ticking of the movement. Take out the loupe and check for dents, scratches etc. Open the case-back and look out for rust, dirt etc on the movement. Look and record down the serial number if possible. Determine which year and period was the watch manufactured. Understand the following terms: (Pristine Mint; Mint+; MINT; Near Mint; Extra Fine; Fine; Average; Fair; Poor; Scrap. Learn and memorize the grading system.

You can buy broken luxury watches, fix them, and then sell them at a profit. There is a great demand for high end ladies vintage mechanical watches. Do not enter the ladies market straightaway unless you know you can get the watches at a cheap price. Family functions or social gatherings could be a place to start to purchase watches. Pawnshops are a good place too. Some people are willing to let go their items on the cheap. Some of the pawnshops have vintage watches. You might even be able to find a Blancpain sometimes. Goodwill stores are another good option. Before you travel, go scout out and hunt the vintage watch stores overseas. Make it a point to visit them. Set some time aside to visit these stores. You can combine your passion and also learn about their culture. Advertise garage sales if you want to sell your watches. However, in this case, if you want to buy, advertise that you want to buy. This method is also relatively inexpensive. Flea markets are good too. However, you should bring a loupe. Give a ‘frown’ when you hear the seller quote a price. Bring cash and stay disciplined.

How to Buy ‘In Real Time’. There are no barcodes for vintage watches. Learn to find good deals on the internet. Use eBay’s red laser to alert yourself of deals and auctions that are ending soon. However, not all sites’ search functions will produce good results. Take advantage of the descriptions on these websites. Learn about the auction process and how it works. Sniping is where you withhold any bidding until the last minute on a desired item. Bid during the auction’s off-season. Look for misspelled words or poor quality photos of watches on sites and then question the owner about them. Bookmark different sites and visit public forums etc. Use the internet like a library.

Selling: ‘Profit from your Passion’. The market will tell you what should be the ‘right’ price. Niche products do command higher prices. I have never lost a penny on a watch. When there is increased demand, the prices tend to rise. Always let it be known to others that you are a watch collector. Auction sites are great too. Create a title for your auction. Check out the sites from other countries. Make sure you are doing business with credible dealers. Always be honest when you deal with others. The mediums to use are the same as when buying a watch. Mechanical watches should be serviced once every 3 to 5 years. Keep your watch in a cool and dry place in order to prevent rust.

The Gray Market, ‘Don’t Get the Blues’. It is an irregular way of distributing/selling merchandise. They might be fake. However, they are not illegal to own, sell, or buy. This might happen when dealers or distributors sell outside their territory. This is driven by demand. There are usually no tariffs. Usually, you will buy watches without serial numbers and there is usually no warranty. It is difficult to sell a watch without serial numbers. Stick to the basics outlined in the guide.

Your Watch Business. Approach your friends and relatives. Find guidebooks and a few watch books. Establish business cards to make yourself look authentic. Find a proper digital camera and set aside money for advertising and your budget. Slowly learn to build your inventory. Choose a business name related to your watches. Wear a watch that you are willing to sell. Always tell the truth about where you found the watch. Take photo with natural lighting only. Keep the watches in a cool and dry place. Use bubble wrap when shipping. All transactions should be recorded using accounting software. Keep track of your expenses. There is no need for a real business plan. For collectible and vintage pieces, it makes sense to head in this direction and not open a watch shop per se. Women are getting more interested in watches and you can potentially target them. One can always sell watches to dealers. Put some system in place to make your life comfortable.

Hot Watches or ‘Time Honored Classics’. The entry price for mechanicals is between $100 to $1,000. Learn to specialize for watches in a particular period or in a particular type of mechanical watch. There are many factors that will affect the price. Some of the famous European brands are: Baume & Mercier (owned by Cartier); Blancpain; Breitling; Corum; Ebel; Eterna; Excelsior Park; Glashutte; Tag Heuer; IWC; JLC; Junghans; Le Phare; Longines; Minerva; Movado; Omega; Tissot; Ulysse Nardin; Universal Geneve; Zenith. American watches: American Waltham Watch Company; Bulova; Benrus; Elgin Watch Company; Gruen Watch Company; Hamilton; Timex.

The watch is a personal “billboard”. It also displays an understanding of aesthetics. It is a miniature piece of art worn on your wrist. When you buy a distinctive timepiece, you are sharing a common interest. Art and beauty! – E.J. Kelly

Build the Ultimate Watch Collection by Jason Heaton

Mechanical watches continue to fascinate. Horology is not dead by any means. Watches are undergoing a revival. This book is for the collector. You can collect it as hobby or as an investment. This book helps you decide which watches to acquire and not to over-purchase. This book is also not about purchasing all the different varieties of a particular Rolex series. One should collect a well-rounded collection. Some of the watches can be difficult to find. This book will present you the ultimate of each category. It is important to know what the best out there is. There are 7 types of watches ‘the dress watch; the chronograph; the dive watch; the complication watch; the beater watch; the vintage watch; modern haute horlogerie watch.’

If, after much internal debate, you finally settle on buying a chronograph, you’ll soon want a dress watch. Splurge on a dressy chronograph, and it won’t be long before you’re eyeing your friend’s dive watch. – Jason Heaton

The Dress Watch. These are watches to make you look smart, for example, at a dinner date. It should be timeless. It will not be your most worn piece for sure. Mobile phone can tell the time too and people stopped wearing watches. The phone was like a pocket watch. This book was written in 2012. Mad Men brought back the restrained style of the 1960s. The dresswatch is making a comeback. It has to look subtle and not draw too much attention. It should slide under a shirt cuff. The size should be about 40mm. There is not much need for it to be luminous. If you can afford one, buy one with a precious metal like gold. The strap should be leather or crocodile. Matching clothes are also important. A mechanical movement is preferred. Mechanical watches are more valuable and can be an heirloom piece. The ultimate dresswatch is Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. It was introduced in 1931 and the case and be reversed 180 degrees inward to protect the watch. It is rectangular in shape. The ability to flip also makes it cool.

The Chronograph. The chronograph is a man’s watch which has good aesthetics. It is a time of beauty. The clutch will engage once you click start and the sweep hand will do its job. Some famous models are the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Omega Speedmaster Pro, the Breitling Navitimer and Zenith El Primero Striking 10^th. ‘Chronograph’ means ‘time writer’. They are associated with auto-racing and flying. Steve McQueen wore a TAG Heuer Monaco. The Omega Speedmaster chronograph landed up on the Moon. There was a race to build the first self-winding (automatic) chronograph. Zenith’s El Primero won the race. When quartz watches were introduced in the 1970s, chronographs went out of fashion. Wearing such a watch connects you with a sense of masculine tradition. Chronographs have variations like tachymeters, telemeters, pulsometers etc. There are also flyback, split-second etc. The best ones are those with traditional pushers. The dial should be symmetrical. A display caseback is even better. The ultimate watch is A. Lange & Sohne’s Double Split. The movement is entirely made in-house. It allows one to time two events simultaneously. This is also known as the rattrapante. There is also a flyback chronograph on this watch.

The Dive Watch. The reach of dive watches are broad. It is crude and simple. It should be able to exist in adverse conditions. It is an adventurer’s watch. In the 1950s, diving was dangerous. Back then, if you dive, you were seen as being adventurous. They were known as being interesting people. It looks good with wear and tear as well. A diver needs to know how long he has been underwater so as to know when to surface. Blancpain and Rolex, in 1953, raced to build the first dive watch. Dive watches usually come with an outer rotating bezel to monitor dive time. This is the feature of a dive watch. Some additional features are like those of coloured dials, increased water resistance, helium release valve. Top brands are Omega, Blancpain, Jaeger LeCoultre, IWC. The dive computer made dive-watches redundant. A dive watch should have a rotating bezel. Extreme water resistance is a must. Legibility and lume is very important in a dive watch. Dive watches usually come on bracelets. Some straps have dive suit extensions. Sea Wolf, Fifty Fathoms, Sharkhunter, Submariner are classic models. The ultimate watch is the Rolex Deepsea Sea Dweller. The bezel is made up of ceramic. It has 3,900 metres water resistance. It also possesses the three-link ‘Oyster’ bracelet. The bracelet also has the patented GlideLock clasp for ratcheting extensions.

The Complication Watch. The energy released from a mainspring is tamed to predictable oscillations on the balance wheel. Gear train will convert these into seconds, minutes etc. Some watches have a date-wheel. A complication does something else other than telling the time. These are objects of desire. It can be showy and impressive. For the craftsman, it is a way to show off his skill. Some of these watches are highly sought after. Henry Graves Jr pushed Patek Philippe to produce complicated pocket watches. A moonphase is a typical complication. The cycle of the moon is once every 29.5 days. A perpetual calendar keeps tracks of shorter months and leap years as well. You won’t have to reset the date on your watch. A minute repeater gets and audible element of the time. You will know the time even in the dark. A gong will chime on the hour, the quarter hours and every minute as well. One of the best watches is Patek Philippe’s Ref 5074.

The Beater Watch. You will need a cheaper and durable watch for doing household chores. This is a black and digital watch. You will always need your beater watch. You don’t worry about it getting stolen etc. Some of the good ones are made by Timex, Citizen. Mechanical watches aren’t really good at resisting shocks. It is very risky to drop your mechanical watch as the watch components are very fragile. Plastic watches can take a lot of abuse. Quartz watches are usually lighter and immune to shock. For heavy sports, do not wear a mechanical watch. The beater watch should be cheap. It should be quartz in nature and multi-functional. It should be at least 100 meters water resistance. The ultimate watch is Casio’s G9000-MC3 Mudman. G-Shock was born in 1983. Some people have tried to destroy their watches, including dropping them from skyscrapers. The movement is ‘floating’ and makes little contact with the case. The watch is mud-resistant and has many features. It is ugly but looks like it originated from a sci-fi film. It is one of the watch greats as well.

The Vintage Watch. This is a piece of history. This is a sign of a connoisseur. It could be commemorative in nature. It takes research to land your hands on one. It is important to buy an authentic one. There are countless of forums for vintage watch collectors. However, the market also has those trying to sell fake watches. Some people ‘stain’ the dial to make it appear old. A Frankenwatch is one where parts are assembled from different eras. Check with your watchmaker to determine authenticity. Vintage Rolex which has cases which are non-sapphire are precious. An example is a COMEX Submariner. A Patek Nautilus from the 1970s will fetch good prices. Fine watch-making is an art. You get transported to the past and understand the history of the man behind the watch. A good era to look at is the 1960s. They were the golden era of mechanical watches. Vintage watches should be significant and rare. Examples are those with factory mistakes, those with military provenance, or watches worn by famous people. James Bond submariners are sought after. Another example is ‘pre-moon’ speedmasters. The ultimate watch is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, ref 6239 or the ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona. The dial had a unique configuration. It is exotic and has a connection with a famous actor.

Wind up your great-grandfather’s pocket watch, and you’re transported to a time when men wore waistcoats and traveled by train. The passage of time separates us from the men who came before us. A watch reconnects us. – Jason Heaton

The Modern Haute Horlogerie Watch. They are now a symbol and a statement of personality. People wear such watches because they appreciate fine watch-making. The watch has to be at the cutting edge of what is possible. ‘Horolgerie’ means ‘time’ and ‘logic’. ‘Haute’ means ‘high’. These are watches are designed and manufactured in a single company. Modern watches might not have a hand or a crown. Some watches have odd dials and shapes and complications. Many brands went out of business because of the quartz watch. Ulysse Nardin produced the ‘Freak’ in 2001, where the movement itself displayed the time. Urwerk also produced watches from the Sci-fi era. Modern watches should not look like traditional ones. It shouldn’t be common. The ultimate watch is MB&F’s HM4 Thunderbolt. It is an outrageous watch. HM stands for Horological Machine. The founder is Maximilian Busser. The watch represents a twist on a fighter jet. Their designs are fresh. There are two cylinders which look like jet engines. However, not everyone will like such watches.

Happy Collecting!